CurveMaster Foot ... TRUE TO ITS NAME!

BLOCK # 33   INDIANA PUZZLE

You know how you go to Craft Shows and buy lots of gadgets and stuff???   Well, last year (or maybe it was the one before!) I purchased the CurveMaster Foot.  The box has sat in my sewing machine drawer ever since.  In playing catch up with my Civil War blocks, I was very happy to find Block # 33 required curved piecing.  So, I said to myself "better have a go at that new foot!!"  and so I did:-)     I made two test blocks first and I must admit I found the foot very easy to use (I did go online to the website for the CurveMaster Foot and followed the directions given).  Once you get used to how to hold the top layer of fabric and allow yourself to trust the foot, the pieces go together very quickly.  You need the tweezers that come with the foot too otherwise you can't hold the last 1/2" or so .... honestly, it was quite easy!!  The pieces I made all came out the exact size and the block pieced up to a perfect 8-1/2" square.  I used the CurveMaster Foot for the curved piecing and switched to my walking foot for joining the quarters together.  I used a scant 1/4" seam when using my walking foot.  The CurveMaster Foot sews with a scant 1/4" seam allowance.  I could have stayed with the CurveMaster Foot when I joined the quarter sections together, but I find I prefer to use my walking foot and my fork pins when joining sections.

Another little trick I used today.....   I printed the templates for the Block onto Freezer Paper, then ironed them onto my fabric for rotary cutting -   too easy!     How did I print onto the Freezer Paper????   It is quite simple...

I cut my freezer paper the same size as a regular piece of printer paper for my printer, then I placed the freezer paper shiny sound down onto the regular paper & ran my iron across the top (iron about a 1/2" down).  Place the joined papers into the printer paper tray (all printers vary, but in mine I placed the joined papers in with the regular paper on top, ironed section leading in) and click print!  I had downloaded the templates from the Civil War site.  The freezer paper templates can be used over and over!

I can see more curved piecing in my future!!  I have the GO CUTTER die for the Apple Core block - I can't wait to try that out now!!!

Happy Sewing!!

KANSAS TROUBLES?

BLOCK # 5 - CIVIL WAR QUILT

NOT IF YOU OWN A WONDER CUT RULER!

I actually enjoyed piecing this block.  I have never worked with such little squares!   To make the HST'S I used my Wonder Cut Ruler.  Two strips are cut to the size you need using the lines on the ruler (I cut my strips on the 1 1/2" line)... you then sew the two strips together (in this case, one light, one dark) right sides together with a 1/4" seam down both sides of the strips.  Then you take the other end of the ruler and cut out the triangles, once again using the 1 1/2" lines on the ruler.  Open up the triangles to reveal a perfectly formed HST which is just a smidge over the 1 1/2" required which allows you to trim up the ears and double check your 45 degree angle.  All of my HST's came out just right.  I used my normal ruler to cut the remaining squares.  If you don't follow, just click on the link above!

THINGS I LEARNT MAKING THIS BLOCK AND SOME TIPS TOO...

Working with such small pieces of fabric, I think it is essential that your rotary cutter is super sharp - so I would recommend a new blade for this project.  If the blade is slightly dull, it will drag on the little piece of fabric when you are trying to cut it in half for the small triangles.

I have clear grip on the underside of all of my rulers - this stops the ruler slipping when you are cutting... this is very useful for such small pieces of fabric.

Spray starch has become my best friend!

I press all seams OPEN.

I found that only one pin was needed when piecing the HST sets together.  More than one seemed to distort the block.  I use very fine bridal pins with glass heads.

To join each side together (after I had pieced each set of two 4 1/2" squares together) I stabbed a pin vertically through the centre match point of each pinwheel set, keeping it standing upright.  I then pinned each side of that pin whilst aligning my seams.  Without removing the upright pin, I sewed the seam, only removing the pins as I came to them.  This involved holding the upright pin in place, but it made sure that the pinwheel came together correctly.   This ensured that my triangles met in the middle quite well (I'm not saying for one minute that mine a perfect, but I'm happy with how they came out!)  I picked up this "trick" from one of my books.....RODALE'S PERFECT PIECING, Page 52

I do not use any steam in my iron until the block is ready to set.  I have a piece of freezer paper marked with the 8 1/2" square which I iron onto my board, then pin the block into place (with glass headed pins) onto the freezer paper.  I then spray starch the block then dry iron/press it.  I like to leave the block sit for as long as possible, then remove the pins and remove the freezer paper from the ironing board and THEN give the block a nice steam press (no rubbing, just pressing).



Some of the Civil War blocks have been quite challenging.  If you are looking for information on how to  piece a block, go over to Lillian's blog.....http://lillianscupboard.wordpress.com/category/quilting/civil-war-quilt/       Lillian gives clear instructions (with pictures).  Thanks Lillian!  I would never have worked out Texas Tears without you!!

Tomorrow my Craft Group starts up for another year.   I'm looking forward to getting back into routine.  We meet every second Tuesday.  I wonder what crafty items we will be making this year?!

Happy Sewing!!